I've been applying trim moldings around the front and rear doors to the cabin and painting and finishing the topsides.
I've been contemplating the mast step and have a plan. I'll be installing it if the weather will cooperate. I still need to install the floor in the bow compartment and in the cabin.
Leeboard Brackets, moldings, & Such
I got the leeboard brackets mounted after much measuring and contemplation. Other than that I have finished attaching the moldings. All these final things take time, but it's nearing completion.
Cardboard template of the leeboard was a great help.
Cutting the Cabin Floor:
I used the last piece of plywood today to make the forward sections of the cabin floor.
Making cardboard templates saves plywood
Second layer of white oak gunwale moldings attached
Next Steps:
Install the mast step, cabin top and floor.
Cockpit painted; framing for cabin floor almost complete. Cabin roof panels cut and dry fitted.
Next Steps
Complete framing and cutting out cabin floor, secure the cabin roof, work on the mast step.
Framing Continues:
I have completed the framing in the cockpit and the motor well, and I have moved on to the cabin floor framing. Rather than water ballast I elected to go with Wake Ballast steel shot bags, so the ballast compartments will receive additional reinforcement. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it's a beautiful sight.
Interior Framing and Decking
I have completed most of the fiberglass taping of the interior joints. I am now doing the framing and decking of the interior. I'm working on the cockpit today. The framing for the cockpit seats is completed, and the panels for the sides of the footwell have been dry-fitted in place.
Cockpit
Taping Inside the Hull
Now that the hull has been turned over I have been filling and taping the interior surfaces of the plywood joints with two layers of fiberglass tape. It's not a fun job but a very important one. I'll be glad to get started on the interior carpentry.
Apply coats of epoxy to interior surfaces, prime interior surfaces, finish sanding, priming, and painting exterior topsides.
Turning the Hull Over
Using a system of pulleys I rigged in the shed I was able to turn the hull over without help. It's nice to see the inside of the boat in the upright position.
Tape and epoxy joints on the inside of the hull
Applying the gunwale moldings
The moldings have been in the shop supported on each end and weighted in the center so they would gradually bend and achieve a curved shape needed to apply them. Of course this is just the first layer and another strip will be applied over it to make it 1 1/2 inches square. It's white oak, so it's quite difficult to bend, but the first effort looks pretty good.
Epoxy, Epoxy, Epoxy
Have spent the past few weeks taping, filling, and fiberglassing the bottom and up the sides to the gunwale. I probably need to do some more filling before I prime it so I won't have to use the excuse, "I like the work boat look."
More sanding and filling. Then prime and paint the bottom before turning the hull over.
Bottom panel
Panel has been planed, tapering the edges smooth. I have applied a layer of 3" tape covered by a layer of 4" tape over all the bottom joints.
Next Step:
Sand smooth and apply 10 oz fiberglass cloth over the entire bottom and bilge panels.
Outer Bottom Panel Installed
With the installation of the outer bottom panel, the hull is complete. Of course there is much sanding, filling, and painting to be done before the hull is turned over. Of the 17 sheets of plywood only one 1/4 inch sheet remains for the cabin top.
Taper the edge of the bottom panel, tape and fill with epoxy. Then fiberglass the bottom.
Maiden Voyage. It's a great day. I launched Atypical at Sardis Lake. Not much wind, but I was elated that it floated and there were no l...
